MAGICAL CONDORS, PLEASE SHOW ME THE WAY TO SUNNYHEAVEN
--a photographer's view on celestial burial
Article  and Photo by Sun Mingguang
2006.1
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   To many people, celestial burial in Tibetan highlands is a mysterious cultural phenomenon. Mr. Sun Mingyuan, a documentary filmaker whose credits include A Story of Gesaer, has worked in Tibetan region for many years.  Here, he gives us his heartfelt observation and unique understanding of Tibetan Celestial Burial......

CALLING  FOR THE MAGICAL CONDORS
   
The most recent filming of a celestial burial ceremony took place in DaLa Monastery (Rta-nya dgon in Tibetan), situated in the Hengduan Mountain valley near the upper reaches of the Lancang River. The Monastery attracted my attention for several reasons.  First of all, it’s ancient. Its origin can be traced to Sa-khyun-dkar bsud-nams-rdson, a name used during the era of Bon Religion (about 100 BC).  Currently, it is the only Yel-pa bgah-brgyud dgun-pa monastery in Tibetan region.  Also, in two caves of the mountain facing the monatery, 5,300 meters above the sea level, there is a group of thousand year old memorial tombs(gdun-rten in Tibetan).  These are the ancient final resting place for King Ling Gesaer’s soul (glin-rje ge-sr rgyl-po) and those of his thirty generals.  Visitors are easily impressed by the prestine condition and the number of gold Buddha statues, ancient scriptures.I was lucky to be the first media professional to visit the Monastery.  By chance, a young Tibetan named Hlo-ldhn was travelling with me.  He had just graduated from a TV university and was on his way back to his hometown to be an elementary school teacher.  We travelled 106 kilometers together by automobile from Nangqian County (nan-chaen-rdson in Tibetan) of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture to Skyid-na Village.  From there, we travelled for two more days on horseback to arrive at Dala Monastery.
   
I was given the privilege to view all the treasures at the monastery.  In the middle of filming, Ar-bian, the young Living Buddha, told us to stop temporarily.  He told us to go film the celestial burial of a deceased old lady.  Seeing my hesitation, he encouraged: “Go ahead. The lady was very friendly with our monastery!”  Indeed, in order to have a complete and detailed view of DaLa Monastery, celestial burial is part of the big picture.
   
Living Buddha Ar-bian told me that the old lady had expressed her wish on how to despose of her body.  She had asked the lamas there to redeem her soul by chanting Buddhist sutras and then let hungry condors, a type of vultures which feed on dead animals and humans, to take her useless body so some small and weak animals can be spared.  I immediatly developed profound respect for the old lady’s spiritual wisdom.  She reminded me of a well known story in Buddhist teaching “Buddha sacrificed his body for a tiger.” The story is about Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism (565—486BC), he courageously sacrificed his body in order to save a hungry baby tiger in his previous incarnation.  Could the old lady’s thought be traced to this Buddhist story?
   
From the old lady’s viewpoint, celestial burial is in essence a form of charity, giving oneself completly to nature to express one’s love for life and the weak.  This is a merciful feeling and a gesture of selfless devotion.  In fact, this is a common understanding among Tibetans who choose to have celestial burial.
        It had been raining for several days.  Though the rain stopped on the day of the burial, the sky was covered with thick clouds.  The old lady’s body was wrapped up with big cloth and placed in the square in front of the Buddha Dharma Temple(chos-skyon lha-kan in Tibetan) of DaLa Monastery. A group of lamas were about to chant Buddhist sutras(bar-dao thos-grol) for her.
As a doctor, Lama Krm-ma hul-zer is often asked to hold celestial burial ceremonies since DaLa Monastery does not have a designated burial master. He is very close to the condors responding to his calling regularly.
Magical comdors arrive at Tsa-na Dur-sa.
Condors are considered magical by Tibetan people.  They believe the condors can take their spirits to heaven


Condors arriving at the celestial burial site of Da-La Monastery.