In 1983, Yanjing
was established as a county after getting approval of the State council
(Chinese cabinet), the county government has been located at Yanjing Town.
At the foot of Meili Snow Mountian, we took a bus which
slowed along a zigzag road among the mountains, being crammed with passengers
and luggage. The bus was followed by a smoke of sand and dust. There was
little withered and yellow grass creeping along the sand-and-rock ground.
To our surprise, there was a large-size piece of green land wherever human
beings were found. Several white Tibet-style houses were enveloped in the
green. As soon as arriving at a mere stone, we all realized that it is Mangkang
County of Tibet Autonomous Region and it would be Yanjing Natural Reserve
after taking another eight kilometers forward. A station for animals quarantine
was set up along the road to strictly check out the vehicles coming and
going. Not far away, among the primitive forest of Hongla Mountain to the
west, it was the hometown of golden monkey, which has been the species on
the animal lists under the State A-grade Protection.
Is it a fact that huntaway leads people to the treasury
place with bittern?
Yanjing is located among the valleys, from where we
could see the blue light caused by the snow on the peak of Pengbori (5,084
meters high above the sea level, one of the peaks of Mangkang Mountains),
the deep scarlet slope looked like a huge body of elephant. The water of
Lancang River thrilling through the valleys, it divided the three villages,
Upper Yanjing, Lower Yanjing and Jiada, into two parts along the river,
similar to a triangle. So the salt marshes were scattered on the riverbank,
tier upon tier, looking similar to some ancient coffin being placed in a
cave or crevice in a cliff (it is a custom of burying a dead person, prevalent
among certain ethnic groups in ancient China). Such unique view forms a
melancholy and unfold painting scroll, merging with the roaring waves of
Lancang River, jade green cultivated land, trees and villages.
How Yanjing was discovered? When was it discovered?
I was searching for an answer to the questions during my visit, but, unfortunately,
many local people hummed and hawed or just gave me some ambiguous replies,
such as "it's about long, long time ago" and "it has a history
of about a thousand years".
According to some legends in Yunnan Province and Tibet
Autonomous Region, it is said that Qian people (Naxi ethnic group) found
the treasury place with bittern earliest. Maybe it is huntaway leads people
to the place or they occasionally discovered it as some certain animals
used to drink water here. It is easy to imagine that local people in Yunnan-Tibet
plateau would be very happy to find the bittern drifting along just like
discover gold mine. More and more people gathered here to rig up an awning
to make salt by evaporating brine in the sun. Following the salt production,
villages appeared and then, land was cultivated for crops, while thousands
kilograms of salt were transported outside by mules to exchange other products
for daily life. However, the salt well which made wealthy for local villagers
was been envied. The two ethnic groups, Tibetan and Naxi, began wars for
many years in order to vie for the land of gold. The story was been told
in The Record of King Gesar, a well-known Tibetan heroic epic. According
to some historians' textual research, Naxi ethnic group moved to the current
area from Yunnan Province during Ming Dynasty (1279-1368). That is to say
that Yanjing has at least a history of a thousand years.
Although Naxi ethnic group lives in both of Upper Yanjing
and Lower Yanjing, which is separated by only a ditch, the two parts of
Naxi have different religious cultures. People in Upper Yanjing profess
Catholicism, and there is an only Catholic chapel in Tibet. And people in
Lower Yanjing have faith and trust in Tibetan Buddha, and the white Buddha
pagoda is built up on the roadside. The two religions in Yanjing coexist
in harmony, which is regarded as a unique place of cultural interest.
The Lancang River is a river providing moisture for
the fields and people on both sides. Not only does it bestow bittern, but
also it has high-temperature clear water gushing out of hot springs, including
Quzhika Spring, one of the best ones in Yanjing. Green leaves of trees make
a shade near the spring with vaporizing fog. Tradition has it that the story
took place hundreds of years ago. Dameiyong, a goddess, befell Quzhika,
where local folks suffered from the outbreak and spread of epidemic diseases.
People's hardship and miserable life moved the goddess into tears, which
turned into 108 hot springs to ward off disasters and bring blessings to
the villagers.