Tibet. In considerable quantity, these unearthed relics indicate that as early
as four or five thousand years ago, inhabitants on the “roof of the world”
were able to appreciate the beauty Ñ they created not only bone needles
to sew, but also jade pendants and beads displaying aesthetic tastes. They
are likely to be a source of Tibetan costume.
A rather rapid development in Tibetan costume culture was witnessed in the
Tibetan Imperial Period (ca. 600-842). According to Tibetan historical documents,
in the 3rd century the costumes of a Tsan-po (Tibetan King) were quite distinct
from his subjects’. As the hierarchical structure was established, the differences
of costumes of people in different ranks became more apparent. Murals in
Dunhuang Grottoes mirrored prosperity of the Tibetan Kingdom at the time.
Generally speaking, only the King was allowed to wear a kind of red brimless
cap. The cap was adorned with grooves and hooped by a tri-leaf crown, usually
higher than that of the common people. The King’s attendants or ministers
could only wear brimless flatcaps. There were differences in garments, too.
There were strict rules that officials should wear ornaments made of different
materials corresponding to their position and rank. Officials of the first
rank could use sese (blue gem), those of the second rank gold, the third
silver covered with gold leaf, the fourth silver, the fifth copper, and
the sixth iron. In addition, each rank was divided into two, i.e. large
and small, that made twelve in total. The ornament would be kept in a box
of three cun (inch) in perimeter, and the official would hang the box in
front of his chest to show his rank. The helmet of a general was decorated
with a “tower,” which would be topped with three tiny colorful flags to
show his birth date.