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2003.3
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THE ORIGINS OF TIBETAN COSTUMES
Article  by Liu Zhao & Li Tao
Photo by Zhang ChaoyinThe


The Tibetan costume of Kha-char village of sPu-rangs county in mNgaÕs-ris area.
Clothes of Tibetans living on the Gansu-Sichuan border.

   Tibet. In considerable quantity, these unearthed relics indicate that as early as four or five thousand years ago, inhabitants on the “roof of the world” were able to appreciate the beauty Ñ they created not only bone needles to sew, but also jade pendants and beads displaying aesthetic tastes. They are likely to be a source of Tibetan costume.
   
A rather rapid development in Tibetan costume culture was witnessed in the Tibetan Imperial Period (ca. 600-842). According to Tibetan historical documents, in the 3rd century the costumes of a Tsan-po (Tibetan King) were quite distinct from his subjects’. As the hierarchical structure was established, the differences of costumes of people in different ranks became more apparent. Murals in Dunhuang Grottoes mirrored prosperity of the Tibetan Kingdom at the time. Generally speaking, only the King was allowed to wear a kind of red brimless cap. The cap was adorned with grooves and hooped by a tri-leaf crown, usually higher than that of the common people. The King’s attendants or ministers could only wear brimless flatcaps. There were differences in garments, too. There were strict rules that officials should wear ornaments made of different materials corresponding to their position and rank. Officials of the first rank could use sese (blue gem), those of the second rank gold, the third silver covered with gold leaf, the fourth silver, the fifth copper, and the sixth iron. In addition, each rank was divided into two, i.e. large and small, that made twelve in total. The ornament would be kept in a box of three cun (inch) in perimeter, and the official would hang the box in front of his chest to show his rank. The helmet of a general was decorated with a “tower,” which would be topped with three tiny colorful flags to show his birth date.